wordplay by GI Wine Guy
images by Sean Hartgrove
There is no better catalyst for conversation with good company than a great wine. If you’re like me, you may know just enough about wine, perhaps a little about its origins, that there are a variety of grapes and that the year has some sort of significance. At the very least, you know there is a difference between red and white. Whatever your particular level of expertise, Cru is the place to experience choice wines and gourmet food.
Located in Larimer square, Cru is LoDo’s newest wine bar, offering a huge selection of great wines, knowledge of subject matter, delicious food, and a cozy interior all at a reasonable price. The setting is comfortable, intimate, and inviting with the feel of a Napa tasting room meets urban mountain living—warm, nuveau, and unpretentious. Cru recently celebrated the grand opening of their patio, which I’m sure is in-step with the quality of the wines served and the servers themselves. A great spot for anyone seeking to expand their wine database, or even to become initiated, Cru is the place to enjoy the great things in life, namely wine, food, and friends.
flights—cheese and wine
For those of you who are nervous about trying something new, Cru is the best place to get experimental. Begin your journey with a “flight” of wine, which allows you to try multiple wines to expand your mind and train your taste buds. A wine flight consists of three glasses of wine representing three separate vineyards, but all are derived from the same variety of grape. The flight is accompanied by tasting notes, to guide you in differentiating the subtleties of each wine. There are also flights of world-class cheeses available, accompanied by their recommended wine pairings.
tour the wine country with Steve
Let manager Steven Doud guide you through the wine country. He’s knowledgeable, personable and enthusiastic about wine—you’ll want him to pull up a chair, pour a glass, and give you a tour. Just about any geographic locale has the potential, though occasionally untapped, to produce a great vintage. Allow Steve to enlighten you on the character of where each wine comes from, which you can taste in the wine itself. Whether you are a novice or a pro, you’ll feel welcome and learned, thus deepening your appreciation for the wine, the food, and the company you keep. While servers are available to lead you in your selection, there is an extensive wine menu if you like to rely on your own expertise or hunt down one of your favorite bottles.
mussels, music, menus
Each and every dish can be perfectly paired with a wine to compliment its flavors. The pairings that Steve presented were well thought out and in-step with the meal. The first glass poured was a dry Fino sherry (2002) to cleanse the palate. The appetizer, tuna tar-tar with Siracha hot sauce, fresh ginger and cilantro, appeared with a Donnhoff Reisling (Germany, 2003). Steve is a master of so many great wines that you’ll enjoy the meal on a much deeper level.
Why does Cru rank highest on my picks given all the great restaurants in Denver? It’s in the details. The mussels were the freshest that I’ve tasted, as if harvested from Colorado mountain lakes or as if the Atlantic were only a few blocks from Larimer Square (Caution: at the present rate of global warming, this idea is not so far-fetched!). The backcloth of music was pleasantly surprising—jazz intermingled with the Cure, Dave Matthews, Jack Johnson, even the Grateful Dead. The dining menu offers plates meant to share as well as traditional entreès. The chef’s most popular dishes are the Ahi Tuna (for sharing) and the Diver’s Scallops (you’ll want these all to yourself).
Chef Wes Ebey
Equally on point is executive Chef Wes Ebey. Originally from Texas, he trained at Cordon Bleu and worked for the prestigious Four Seasons Hotel. Now new to Denver, his purpose is simply stated, “to make people happy.” In addition to menu listings, he gladly honors special requests, like the above mentioned tuna tar-tar. Despite amazing culinary skills, he is down to Earth and genuine.
ports & dessert
You might be full but please, don’t skip the ports or the desserts! Try the wild berry cobbler and vanilla gelato with a glass of Dows Vintage Ruby port (1996) to wind down your evening.
Ultimately, the point of wine is to bring people together. Any restaurant can provide a good wine, maybe even a good meal, but it takes more to get your friends and family together. There’s a story, a history, a passion, a climate, culture and region and now it’s on Denver’s doorstep. Larimer Square has been waiting patiently, corkscrew in hand, to uncork and inhale a place like Cru.
“Though many a fine eatery occupy Colorado’s hippest locales, few offer the total experience like that of Cru. This is a must go and must go again.”
-Greg Bloom, Publisher
1442 Larimer Square
CruAWineBar.com

