wordplay: Ben Simkins
images: Sean Hartgrove

"He was a brave man that first ate an oyster." - Jonathan Swift.

As far as statements go, this one is pretty much right on the money. I mean, honestly, would we really revel eating what looks like Poseidon’s snot unless we had someone to tell us of the multiple layers of wondrous flavor it held? It would have been a gamble, one that definitely paid off, but a gamble nonetheless. A gamble now being mirrored by one of America’s most prominent seafood eateries: The Oceanaire. Colorado has a long running love affair with all things fresh, including their love of the bounty presented under the briny sea. It’s just such a shame that between that briny bounty and us is either a Bible belt, or a den of sin (City). Talk about a rock and a hard place! And, to be quite honest, getting anywhere near a Rocky Mountain Oyster has me in fits of boyish laughter. The Oceanaire feels your pain, and possibly the bison’s too. They have braved the journey, circled their wagons and set up camp in our fair city. Standing over the fire is Executive Chef Matt Mine, a man with a plan…well, actually several of them. I was able to dive into one such plan as it was being executed, at The Oceanaire’s grand opening party.

To show off their new digs, including the above quote scribed on their wall in cursive, The Oceanaire rolled out the red carpet and allowed Denverites to pack in like sardines (take a breath and wait for laughs to cease…crickets). Right about now, I could give you a lowdown on the menu, but it seems a bit fruitless. The ever-changing Oceanaire lives and breathes the philosophy that freshness is the key ingredient. Each daily printed menu is based on what has been flown in (specifically for them) from around the world that day, and then custom-tailored by Mine and his crew. Served up in the 1930’s ocean liner-inspired interior, the simple but inspired fair works in complete harmony with the Art Deco touches. I will tell you one thing about the food: they make so good on their promise of freshness, that you half expect to exit the restaurant and be met with only a deck to separate you from the blue, blue ocean below. There is one menu item (the party’s biggest hit) that I would like to put ink to paper for, and that’s their no filler crab cakes. These suckers were so popular that one of the friendly, hard working wait staff had to sneak some to our table so we could even try them before they were gobbled up en route from the kitchen. By now, you may be reading the end of this article while steam pressing your top and tails so you can sample your very own oceanic journey, but wait. The Oceanaire might be at the very high end of good food, but they don’t expect you to be. Continue pressing the pants if you so wish, but, to be honest, they would be just as happy if you turned up in tennis shoes. A direct quote from their website has this to say on the subject:

“Because of our ample portions and unpretentious atmosphere, we've even been called a seafood restaurant for people who love the steakhouse.”
I think that pretty much sums it up, don’t you?

14th & Arapahoe

(303) 991.2277

TheOceanaire.com