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| Saturday, July 01, 2006 |
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Ocean: In Troy We Trust
By Image Mag Staff @ 11:41 AM :: 178 Views ::
0 Comments :: Food
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wordplay by Roxanna Swartz
images by Sean Hartgrove
There are two concepts that come to mind when I hear the word ocean. The first is infinite possibility—like how the ocean’s boundaries cannot be defined; the way the ocean blends seamlessly into the sky. The second is transportation. For some people that means surfing or sailboats; to me it is the opportunity as terrestrial animals to experience another world. Both of these abstract impressions are consistent with Ocean, Cherry Creek’s freshest new seafood restaurant, skippered by one of Denver’s best chefs and now nationally recognized—Troy Guard.
Infinite possibility is exactly the way to describe the culinary imagination of Troy Guard—the same chef who developed nine75, which fills the “home-style comfort food with international flare” niche. Troy’s flavor concoctions are limitless, and yet not so alien as to be unappreciable by a novice eater. A few of the unique concoctions at Ocean include grilled lobster tacos and Brie quesadillas with shrimp salsa—and that’s just for starters (literally). On that subject, don’t start your evening without a pineapple mojito, with fresh pineapple and fresh mint leaves plunging into a summer requisite.
The one side you won’t want to miss is the corn and crab chowder. At Ocean, each and every ingredient is fresh and every dish is prepared from scratch. The corn is fresh cut from the cob, and the rich cream is fresh from the farm. The delicate blue fin crab comes from abundant populations that are fished in ecologically sound ways, as do all their served sea foods. Other fish dishes that are highly recommended for taste as well as sea-friendliness are the Alaskan halibut, topped with an avocado-mango salsa, the Costa Rican sunfish, and Troy’s signature miso black cod. The best and most important quality (executed to perfection by my standards) is the way the fish gently flakes apart, about 3 mm before your fork touches the filet.
The menu options at Ocean are equally limitless; e.g. if you don’t like seafood, refer to the steaks and poultry. The exceptionally tender beef capriccio, born and raised at Snake River Farms in Idaho, is served with a succulent soy drizzle and confetti of fresh herbs. The 18oz KC bone-in striploin is served with a subtle blend of shallots and fresh herbs, along with a rich demi-glaze that takes 36 hours to make.
Other sea-free selections include many of the salads. The cherry tomato and fresh mozzarella salad is served over frisée, with a splash of balsamic dressing and enlivened with fresh ground black pepper. If presentation is a priority, try the Caesar salad—stacked like Roman columns dunked in dressing, sprinkled with Parmesan, and topped with crunchy homemade croutons. The grilled asparagus is uncut, except that which released it from the garden. My favorite is the fried calamari salad—crispy, spicy squid ringlets paired with soft, sweet wedges of Mandarin oranges on a bed of field greens.
The only way to follow a salad is with a fabulous dessert. I am a firm believer that you can taste time in the preparation of every food. Hence the medley of strawberry and butterscotch bon-bons, homemade ice cream hand-dipped in dark chocolate, inducing instant pleasure. The bread pudding is decadent—warm sautéed cinnamon apples and a dollop of whip cream make it deserving of gourmet standing. The cherry on top is the service; even the person pouring your water is friendly.
I’ll admit, I’m a very picky eater. Not because I don’t like mushrooms, or the texture of squid, but because it takes innovation to interest me, and perfect preparation to impress me. That said—the food at Ocean gets a gold star. Equally important when critiquing a restaurant is the atmosphere. The dining room is cool and calm, like an ocean breeze, yet without the arrogance that accompanies many upscale restaurants. The high-back velvet seats are comfy, but don’t swallow the patron. As for the other seating options, join me for a quick tour: there are the “captain’s quarters” for privacy, the “gulley” for gathering, and an outdoor patio with private tents (AKA the “North and South coves”), all available for family and friends at no rental cost. The last element that I evaluate at every restaurant is the restroom. I’ll leave this stupefaction for your own discovery.
201 Columbine (Cherry Creek)
www.SullivanRestaurantGroup.com
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