wordplay: Cameron Dabney

Approaching downtown from the west on Colfax, a hand-painted wooden sign reads DOMO, or “thank you” in Japanese. This sign has always piqued my curiosity and one night I turned down that roughly paved road, pleased with my discovery. Underneath the sign exists paradise. Walk through the Japanese gate and you are transported from Colfax traffic to the Japanese countryside. A large Zen garden is home to flowering trees and a petite koi-filled pond.  Fish kites dance in the summer breeze above your head. Large ceramic sake jugs and dried mushrooms accent the room and papier-mâché lanterns cast a warm glow. Thick tree stumps like toadstools sit under giant stone slab tables and thick branches climb the walls. To think, all the wooden décor came from a single beetle-kill tree…this creative green act speaks loudly of the conscious intentions behind Domo, and owner Guku Homma.

Domo is known for traditional, country-style Japanese cuisine, what one might be served in a family home. Start with a delicious seafood pancake, warm and nurturing. Be sure to enjoy one of their unique, refreshing iced teas before the warm sun descends. Purple carrot is dark and distinct with an earthy flavor, and the hibiscus is a brilliant crimson and slightly sweet. Seven incredible side dishes appear to accompany the meal, distinctly Domo dining. Each is filled with different mixtures of vegetables and/or meat. The salmon with broccoli and masago is super savory and enhanced by the knowledge that, once upon a time, dried salmon was worth its weight in gold! Enlightenment arrives with a single bite of Renkon to Kiriboshi, a mixture of vegetables and lotus root.

We sip sake, bowing down not to miss a drop from the overflowing boxes, a symbol of hospitality.  Cheers, Kanpai! Next, we’re presented with five bowls, each a unique preparation of Sushi. Instead of bite-sized pieces, raw fish lays above rice in a little bowl you raise in your hand to eat. My personal favorite is the jalapeño hamachi, delicious fatty sushi with a fresh summery kick of pepper. Each bowl is a work of art, colorful, healthy and delectable. Teriyaki is popular, a healthy and scrumptious down home dish of seafood and veggies over white rice and barley.

Make sure to take in the exquisite ambiance. Walking the garden after dinner, you may discover a little shrine blessing the garden with tranquility and abundance. A door across the way filled with Japanese geta sandals lures visitors into the adjoining museum. The single room is filled with pots, dishes, saws, a samurai costume and kamikaze sake glasses. You actually feel you’ve been invited into someone’s home as you peer into the traditional Japanese kitchen. One side of the museum opens to a dojo and, with luck, you may catch students practicing aikido.

Domo was once a simple restaurant on Colfax. In 1996, Gaku Homma manifested his dream of sharing a true representation of Japan with Colorado. He changed his location and expanded to include a museum, dojo and traditional Japanese gardens. Sensei (teacher) Homma, the last live-in student of the founder of Aikido, is the owner, chef and aikido teacher. To top it off, he volunteers for non-profit work worldwide. After a night in this hidden pocket of serenity, you’ll leave feeling satisfied, alive, energized and at peace.

Domo, thank you.

1365 Osage

(303) 595.3666

DomoRestaurant.com