wordplay by Ben Simkins
images by Sean Hartgrove

Tradition has a warm safe place in our hearts. It’s what makes integrating holidays between families when kids marry so darn hard. Tradition sits in our memories and defines the way we do things. We make our families’ secret recipes that have been passed down through generations, probably originating from a recipe book. It often defines our path through life. Like a common example, “My dad’s a lawyer/doctor/Navy officer and I’m expected to follow in his footsteps.” Tradition sometimes sets up expectations that are hard to fulfill. The Cork House has that type of tradition as their burden to bear.

Literally housed in the exact same house that once was the site of the long standing (32 years, to be exact) Tante Louise, The Cork House moved into shoes that would, from the start, be hard to fill.  As if this wasn’t enough to contend with, The Cork House has one more tradition to uphold, coming from a family of extremely well established restaurants that have become famous across Colorado, The Broker. So how does The Cork House stand up to the unforgiving expectations of long standing tradition? It does it the only way it knows how.  By serving up healthy portions of quality, house favorites in a relaxed and cozy setting.

What with the name and all, I think it would be rude to start anywhere other than with The Cork House’s selection of wine. The Cork House offers a wide enough range of wines to satisfy any palate, including a nice assortment of dessert wines that finish off a meal in style, like a relative pulling out a bottle of Muscat for a special occasion. I sampled a few of my own weaknesses and discovered a nice Pinot Noir called La Foret, from Bourgogne. Also, handing my trust over to our server, I sampled a smoky Cabernet Sauvignon that was one of the night’s specials. All wines are competitively priced by both glass and bottle, and complement the menu which consists of a wide range of American fine cuisine with a Mediterranean flair. Favorites such as 1½ pounds of Crab legs show up for a guest appearance, but it is The Cork House’s ability to mix comfort food containing high quality ingredients with a slight twist that bring out the true Cork House experience. Two such dishes are the Colorado Rack of Lamb served with a mint sauce and garlic mashed potatoes, or the Roasted Long Island Duck served with a spicy plum sauce. If you aren’t looking for something heavy, The Cork House has a wide selection of inventive soups, salads and appetizers to choose from as well. If it’s a few glasses of wine and a nibble you’re interested in, The Cork House offers a cheese flight where you can choose from an assortment of cheeses from around the world. The Cork House’s breakfast/brunch menu is also far from lacking inspirational twists on favorites such as the Stuffed French Toast using a Grand Marnier brioche and filling them with scrambled eggs, cheese, and sausage or ham.

With all the tradition that The Cork House finds itself representing, I find it to uphold its end of the bargain, while at the same time, throwing in enough new ideas to bring in new people to create traditions of their own within its four walls and roomy patio. With it’s very own, well established grape vines.

4900 East Colfax

CorkHouseDenver.com