wordplay: Ben Simkins
images: Jonathan Shoup
As a native Englishman, I owe a lot of my culture to India. I might get harrumphed by those with a close-minded approach to the world, but look around… Well not here, obviously, but bear with me on this one. Our national U.K. beverage, tea, is an import from India. Our national dish is Indian. Hell, even one of our finest actors, Sir Ben Kingsley, got his ‘Sir’, in part, for portraying one of India’s greatest leaders, Mahatma Gandhi. Americans are a little less familiar with these influences. Indian cuisine hasn’t established as much of a stronghold here in the melting pot. Major metropolises tend to favor a little China over a little India. That’s why Vinny and Simran brought Little India to us.
Ten years since they opened the doors of their 6th Avenue location, Little India now has three. Its newest spot on South Downing has become the flagship for Denver’s most beloved Indian restaurant. And as they get ready to celebrate their paper anniversary, we at Image decided it was high time to return to this Denver institution.
Little India’s goal has always been to get Denverites excited about the vast world of Indian cuisine. The best way to do that is with fresh tastes, fresh flavors and fresh ingredients. Something all three locations have in spades, thanks to the universal menu envisioned by Chef Shinda Singh. From the start, bold flavors wake your palate, as the complimentary pappadams arrive at the table. These taco shell-shaped chickpea crisps come with both mint and tamarind dips. Any Indian menu can be a daunting procession of unknowns if you’re not familiar with its depths, and this is where the combo platter appetizers are a good choice (even if you’re a die-hard). Chock full of fried goodness, the heavy flavors are balanced with freshly made Raita (a cucumber yogurt dip) and the best Mango Chutney I’ve ever had. The real star here, though, is the Vegetable Samosa. Often mistaken for a greasy mess of soggy pastry and mashed up, pepper-heavy vegetables, Little India sets the record straight. The flaky pastry housing for the perfectly seasoned filling gives it a light feel, while still satisfying like only pastry and potatoes can. Add to this my eternal favorite flatbread, the melt-in-your-mouth, clay-oven, mesquite-smoked Naan. Order a couple, as you’ll need them to mop up the entrées. Speaking of which, for me, the freshness of Indian cuisine comes out best in the main course. Little India’s Chicken Tikka Masala is no exception with its creamy, spice-laden sauce and tangy heat from the Tikka rub. The ever-popular Saag invokes feelings of home-cooked meals with its creamy spinach and (if you choose it this way) gaminess of the lamb, while still blossoming into a punch of heat as an endnote.
For the veggie among us, there are plenty of options. Little cubes of homemade cheese called Paneer are always good, but try the Bharta Makhni. A subtle, yet heat-infused, dish with Tandoori eggplant in a buttery, tomato sauce. But if it’s a dish you want everyone to notice as it sizzles its way to your table, then the Fish Tandoori with its balance of sweet caramelized Mahi Mahi and citrus overtones, is the way to go. To cool the palate between bites, Little India has a decent wine list, cold beers (share a Taj Mahal with a friend) and well-conceptualized cocktail selection. The Captain Mango is like a fruity white Russian with the creamy Mango lassi.
Yes, Indian food can be somewhat pricier than some other regional cuisines but it’s worth the extra hit to the wallet, and Little India stays competitive with their prices in comparison to less established… establishments. For real bang for your buck, you can’t beat their lunch buffet. Just don’t plan on eating for the rest of the day, as you’ll leave resembling the dude from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life. “Wafer thin mint, sir!”
Image would like to congratulate Little India on 10 delicious years
330 E. 6th
1533 Champa
2390 S. Downing
10 Yr Festival August 14th @ 2390 S. Downing
LittleIndiaDenver.com